The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on